This weekend wasn’t the ideal time to head to Tofino for some surfing adventures since my wrist was still buggered, but our friend Dionne was celebrating her 40th birthday there so we couldn’t skip it. If I was smart I would have stayed out of the water and rested my injury, but once I was on the beach watching the waves breaking my resolve faded quickly.
I gobbled an Advil and taped up my wrist as best I could. The waves were a great size for SUP surfing…small enough to be chill and not attract the hardcore surfing crowd, but energetic enough for some fun rides. I spent 3hrs paddling my SUP until the pain in my wrist couldn’t be ignored and the cold North Pacific Ocean seeped into my summer wetsuit. I was pretty stoked that I had retained a lot of the surfing skills I learned in Baja. I’m no pro, but I was stable on my board and got most of the waves I paddled for.
That night my wrist let me know it was unhappy and I medicated it with numerous beers. I definitely should have skipped day 2, but my surf stoke was in full effect. Sharon decided to take a 3hr private lesson so she dropped me off with my SUP and was going to collect me later in the day.
I realized that was a mistake about 15mins into my session when my wrist was very painful from the efforts of the previous day. So much so I couldn’t really get my shit together to catch waves as I was so worried about protecting it. I considered getting off the water, but without a car, cellphone or wallet all I could do would be to sit on the beach and wait 2.5hrs+ for Sharon on to arrive. If there had been a fire going I would have given in and warmed up there. Without any way to stay warm I figured I was best off to paddle around gently to kill time.
That might have worked ok…except I started to get excited about catching a wave and tried for a few without success. Then I caught one and was super stoked. I paddled right back out to the line up without a second thought. While I was waiting for the next set to arrive my aching wrist let me know it wanted to stop. So I decided one more wave and I would call it quits.
Of course right after catching a great ride on a wave I was so stoked I wasn’t feeling any pain and I paddled back out forgetting my wrist was injured. Once out there with some time between waves to think I would always decided the sensible thing to do was head to the beach and rest. And every wave I would paddle right back out.
It was silly. I was having fun and in a ton of pain. I should have stopped and I never wanted to stop.
Finally the cold water and the pain had their way with me and I did pack it in. I didn’t have a watch so I had no idea how long I would be waiting for Sharon. As I walked back towards the parking lot with my SUP I saw her coming back the other way in dry clothes.
I checked the time and I had been in the water 3.5hrs! Yikes…I was definitely addicted to SUP surfing…😉
For what it’s worth I did skip day 3, but by that point I couldn’t lift a cup of tea with my bad hand so the decision was pretty easy. The good news is I am going to Toronto for a week to visit my parents without a bike or board. So I’ll have some enforced rest!