Mo’ Rando Tweaking…

1 05 2012

Time for some shoe surgery...

I have a bad memory. If I don’t take care of stuff when it’s on my mind I’ll totally forget until the next time I have the same problem. That’s usually sometime that I can’t fix it so the cycle continues – often for an embarrassingly long time. So when I got back from the weekend’s 300K I had a to do list of things I wanted to sort out.

Surgery up close...

First off was cutting away part of the tongue of my bike shoes. They are fine for 100kms, but somewhere between 100k-200K they start to irritate me. Not awfully, but enough that I wanted to solve the problem. I just chopped the top part of the tongue off so it didn’t rub my top of my foot near the ankle.

Got the granny? - Yes!

Next up was sorting out my front derailleur so it would shift across all 3 rings reliably. Not sure why I couldn’t take care of it on the ride, but my brain wasn’t running at 100%! Anyways a few minutes in the workstand and it was sorted. I did a road test just to be sure.

Miche needle bearing headset keeps the front end turning...

I checked the headset tension and it was a bit less than I thought it was so I snugged it up which got rid of the hand’s free riding shimmy. Clearly it’s a pretty sensitive adjustment!

Smoothing out the edges...

I tweaked the saddle position slightly and used a dremel tool to smooth the edges of the leather around the perimeter of the saddle as well as the cut out.

It's a dirty job, but some component has to do it!

I cleaned the chain – which in my world is wipe it down with a rag and re-lube – finally wipe off excess lube after 30mins.  Checked chain wear – it was fine. I don’t futz with my chains much. I buy cheap ones, give them minimal maintenance and throw them out when they start to wear out, but before they trash my cassette/rings. I don’t notice any performance differences between $15 chains and $100 chains.

Got to measure the roll out...

Checked tires, spoke tension/rims, brakes and fenders for problems….all okay!

A necessary evil on a rando bike...

Re-calibrated bike computer as it’s been reading high. Roll out was 2063mm. The Cateye owner’s manual suggests a rollout of more than 2100mm for this size tire so that’s why you have to measure the roll out to get accurate odometer numbers.

Petzel e+lite & Bern helmet...

Made a note to buy some spare batteries for my Petzel e+lite as it’s been used on two 300K’s and some night training rides. I don’t want to run out of photons when my GPS craps out at night and I am relying on the cue sheet 100%.

My Boulder Bicycle on last weekend's 300K...

Except for the derailleur adjustment nothing I took care of was life or death, but these items took a couple hours to fit into my day and they’ll make my next brevet a little easier/nicer. That’s a good thing!



8 responses

2 05 2012
Chris Cullum

Good tips. It’s important to remember that measured roll out does not account for tire compression. With wide, relatively low pressure tires like the Hetre this can be significant, effectively making the diameter/circumference smaller. This will give you over distance readings on the odo.

2 05 2012

@Chris – I weight the front wheels as I roll the bike to compress the tire then I measure the result.

2 05 2012
Chris Cullum

That’s smart! I think the calculated values in the booklets fail to take that into account, they always seem to overestimate.

2 05 2012

I’ve never tried to measure a rollout. I generally try riding known distances of over 100 km and then adjust my computer based on the percentage error. You’re never going to be 100% accurate because of issues like compression, so I just try to make my speedo match the distances Google maps or someone else’s GPS give.

2 05 2012

@Ben – I’ve had good luck measuring rollout to get accurate results, but adjusting based on known distances works as well and I’ll essentially use that technique to verify the rollout measurement.

2 05 2012

Funny thing – as I was looking over the photos I took of the front rack I noticed the mounting bolts/nuts looked loose. Sure enough the nuts had both backed off a lot. I didn’t see that when looking at the bike, but in a photo it jumps out!

3 05 2012

Vik, What dremel tip did you use to get the smooth edge on the saddle?

3 05 2012

@doc – just a standard small sanding drum. Lesson learned – don’t do this indoors – it’s too messy!…=-)

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