Basic Kiteboarding Info…

What is Kite Bar Pressure?

Your interface with the kite...

If you are new to kiteboarding you’ll read kite reviews talking about bar pressure as well as hearing other kiters discussing the subject. So what is bar pressure? Well you are connected to your kite through the front and rear lines. The front lines go straight to your harness via your chicken loop [black loop closest to you in image above]. The back lines are attached to your control bar and you use them to steer the kite with. Additionally the control bar sliding towards you or away from you changes the angle of attack of the kite [how much air it catches] which increases or decreases power from the kite. The design of the kite and the bar will determine how much force you feel at the bar in at a given windspeed with a kite. Some kites really pull hard on the rear lines so you have to pull back hard to keep the bar where you want it and you have to pull harder on the bar to steer the kite. Some kites are in the middle and some kites offer very light bar pressure.

Here are some examples:

• Ocean Rodeo Rise: you’ll feel very little pressure at the bar for a given windspeed with these kites. I generally fly mine with one hand just lightly on the middle of the bar and I can steer the kite with 1 finger.
• Naish Code: you’ll feel a ton of bar pressure compared to the OR Rise. My arms get tired after a 2hr session on one of these kites.
• Liquid Force Havoc: this kite is between the two kites above. It pulls hard enough you get lots of feedback from the kite, but it’s not obnoxiously hard to hang onto.

OR Rise = so light you forget it's there...

What’s the best?

There is no right answer when it comes to bar pressure. Some like it hard, some like it light and some want medium pressure. If you are a weaker rider or have tendonitis issues you’re likely to want a kite with light bar pressure. When you are learning having a moderate to high amount of bar pressure can be good because it lets you know where the kite is and you won’t steer it with light accidental input to the bar. Before you buy a kite make sure you try it and understand what it feels like to fly it – keeping in mind there are many designs and they feel quite different from one another.

LF Havoc = medium bar pressure...

What do I like?

I really like light bar pressure when I kiteboard. Partially because I have chronic tennis elbow issues and partially because a light bar lets me control my kite very easily for gracefully intuitive riding. When I demo a kite the first thing I notice when I’m out on the water is how hard to I have to pull on the bar. My test is after 30-45mins of riding with a new kite am I thinking about the bar or is my attention on the board and the water? If the bar is pulling too hard my focus is on the bar and I don’t like that. If the bar pressure is light I’m flying the kite with one hand and my arm is relaxed so my brain shifts to the important part of the experience the terrain I’m riding and my board. The kite starts to fly itself and I love that feeling.

My friend is stronger and stockier than I am. He doesn’t notice or mind a kite with high bar pressure. So you really have to try a few kites to see where you fit in.

More pressure = more power?

You can have two different kites that are both equally powerful, but one has very light bar pressure and the other pulls your arms out of their sockets. Remember that the energy that moves you around the water is transfered to your body via the front lines through the chicken loop attached to your harness. The back lines are for control. So don’t assume a kite with lots of bar pressure is necessarily an extremely powerful kite compared to one with light bar pressure. The reality could be exactly the opposite.

Nitnaht Lake First Session…

I was seeing red at Nitnaht!...=-)

Kurt and I got out to Lake Nitnaht for a great early season kiteboarding session on Friday. We took a chance as conditions this time of year are not reliable, but our gamble paid off as we had epic conditions and only two other kiters on the whole lake. I got onto my board in the shallows and was riding for 30mins before my first wipeout. I was pretty shocked how cold it was…brrr! Being on top of the water wasn’t bad, but as soon as you went down it was chilly. I was wearing a 5/4/3mm Pro Motion kiteboard wetsuit which was fine, but I’ll be using my Ocean Rodeo Predator drysuit next session which has a hood. Kiteboarding is more passive than surfing so you don’t generate as much body heat since you aren’t paddling and if things go wrong you can be in the water for a long time getting things sorted out or just floating towards shore. I was super impressed when Kurt came in and wasn’t wearing surf booties or gloves – he’s a trooper!

I thought all my biking this spring would have made me ready for a day of kiteboarding, but when I got up the next day I was so sore. My legs barely worked and my abs were screaming! It seems like I am always a month behind the fitness power curve..;-)~

Kurt is flying green...

The pain was worth it. I can’t wait for another trip out to the lake. Talking to Mike C it looks like I can run a control for him on the 600K and still get out to Nitnaht for the weekend. Now I just have to pray to the weather gods for sunshine to power the thermal winds!

Ocean Rodeo Mako 150

2011 Ocean Rodeo Mako 150...

I tested a 2010 Ocean Rodeo Mako 150 in Baja this past winter and really liked it. I had planned to buy another Mako King, but a Slingshot Tyrant surfboard snuck into my quiver so I switched gears and went with the Mako 150.

Somewhat lame 2011 OR graphics...

Ocean Rodeo made a couple nice changes to the Mako 150 for 2011 – they upgraded the core to wood from foam for better durability and they added inserts for a mutant 3 fin option with the pads set back towards the rear of the board. Sadly they changed the graphics from a clean sharp look in 2010 to something I find pretty uninspiring – especially the craptacular logo. The Mako 150 is such a great kiteboard that I wouldn’t let mediocre graphic design put you off, but come on OR you can do better!

The bottom of the Mako 150...

Happily Ocean Rodeo didn’t change the amazing bottom shape or board outline of the Mako 150. It still has a ton of rocker and concave to give that uber smooth ride that loves to eat up chop and swell of any size. If I ever hear they are making a change I’ll buy two spare Mako 140′s and at least one Mako 150 so I’ll have Mako loveliness to ride for years to come.

If you haven’t tried a Mako you have no idea what you are missing!

Trying to capture the bottom shape...

So why not get another Mako King the big 165cm x 45cm member of the Mako family? Well I blame it on Andy at Kite Paddle Surf Bellingham! He rides a lot of kiteboarding gear and is very smart about figuring out what gear is the best in term of performance and price. Anyways he turned me onto a Slingshot Tyrant surfboard last season which I had a blast on in Baja. So I have a larger soul riding wave slashing board. He is also quite devious in that he puts a lot of gear out on the beach for folks to demo. I demo’d a Mako 150 in Baja and loved how it was a killer mix of the Mako 140′s nimbleness and the Mako King’s stable smooth soul riding vibe. Although I resisted for a few months I ended up buying a Mako 150 from Andy.

Resistance is futile!

Liquid Force LFX...

While was at the shop lusting after kites and boards Andy showed me the board he is super stoked about at the moment - a Liquid Force LFX twin tip. He says it’s got a lot of the smooth freeride vibe of the Mako lineup with the load and pop [due to the board's flex] of a freestyle board for explosive airtime and cranking tricks. My will power was just good enough to leave the shop without buying one, buy based on past experience with Andy I bet this board will end up in my quiver for my next kiteboarding season.

BTW – if you are wondering why a kiteboarder in Victoria BC would buy their gear from a kiteshop in Bellingham, WA it’s simple – the folks at Kite Paddle Surf provide the best prices, awesome customer service and they are so stoked about kiteboarding that it’s fun to deal with them. They’ve got free shipping to Canada on orders over $300 now which is any board or kite. Since there isn’t a local kiteboard shop in Victoria Kite Paddle Surf is my local shop.

Ocean Rodeo Mako 150 Review

Mako 150 & Mako 140...

I got to try out an Ocean Rodeo Mako 150 board for a few days courtesy of Bellingham Kiteboarding.  The Mako 150 is the model right between the Ocean Rodeo Mako 140 I’ve been riding for a year and the Mako King that I rode at Lake Nitnaht this past summer.

They are both nice looking boards...

The Mako 150 is shaped the same as the Mako 140 with an extra 5cm at each end.  This extra length takes the edge of the board and gives it some of the cruising vibe of the Mako King without the weight and massive size. The Mako 150 was sort of the best of both worlds…when I wanted to charge hard I could rip turns and jump with it nearly as good as my 140, but when I wanted to take it easy it had a chilled out character and great upwind ride that’s not available on the Mako 140.

Ocean Rodeo Mako...my favourite kiteboard line up!

Would I give up my 140 and only ride a 150?  I don’t know.  When I’m in the mood to rip the smaller size and lighter weight of the Mako 140 is pretty sweet.  I think if Sharon wants to ride a Mako we’ll get a 150 to compliment my 140.  We can ride both depending on conditions and our moods – that would be perfect.

One situation where I’d take a Mako 150 over a 140 or a King is for travel.  For 2011 Ocean Rodeo has setup the Mako 150 so it can be ridden in mutant TT mode like the Mako King with surf straps and 3 fins at the back end and one fin on the front.  That would give you an airline friendly board that can really do everything.

Love that Mako concave...

If you haven’t ridden an Ocean Rodeo Mako you need to give one a try.  They give you a super smooth ride in the chop and carve turns so well.  The only problem is you may have trouble going back to a square twin tip!

Click here for my previous Ocean Rodeo Mako review posts.

BTW – big thanks to Bellingham Kiteboarding [aka Kite Paddle Surf Bellingham]…putting out a ton of demo gear is expensive and a hassle, but it’s the only way for people to know what gear is right for them. Kiteboarding gear is expensive so being able to validate a choice before you buy is key. The fact they have the lowest prices I’ve found and great customer service is totally bonus.

Customizing the RRD for Sharon…

Tweaking my big twin tip for Sharon...

Sharon will be using my big twin tip RRD Placebo board when she comes down to Baja.  It’s easy to ride and provides lots of lift making it easy to get out of the water and stay planning even if you don’t fly the kite perfectly.  That’s why it’s smart to learn on a big board and keep it around for light wind days and for new kiters to use.

Installing an Ocean Rodeo GoJoe...

The nice folks at Bellingham Kiteboarding let me swap out Sharon’s all black Ocean Rodeo GoJoe for one with some orange on it for better visibility – thanks!  As a new kiter you lose your board a lot and body dragging back to it all the time gets old fast.  The GoJoe keeps your board a lot closer to you by acting like a sail so that it’s easy to spot in the waves and easier to get back to.  Definitely a worthwhile investment.  Even when Sharon is past the learning stage we’ll keep the GoJoe around for tough conditions where losing your board is a real risk.

Adjusting pads...

You’ll notice the lower pad is closer to the heel edge [left side of photo] than the top one.  I moved both pads in to the centre as far as possible and towards the heel edge so that Sharon [who is a lot lighter than me] has some help putting weight on the heel edge.  That’s the edge she’ll be riding 90% of the time and with small feet and lower body weight it’s not as easy for her to  load up that edge as it is for me.  A narrower stance also makes sense with shorter legs.

The final touch...

Once I had it all setup I cleaned it off and personalized the board for Sharon…=-)

Baja Kiteboarding Gear 2011

Viva Mexico!

For the kiteboarders out there here is what I am taking to La Ventana, Baja Sur, Mexico this winter for gear:

• 12m Naish Code [2008] + bar
• 10m Ocean Rodeo Rise [2010] + bar
• 8m Ocean Rodeo Rise [2011] + bar
• 6m Naish Cult [2009] + bar
• Ocean Rodeo Mako 140 [2010]
• Slingshot Tyrant 6’2″ surfboard [2011]
• Dakine Nitrous shorts harness w/ leash
• 2 pumps
• Kitefix repair kit

For Sharon I’ll bring:

• 9m Naish Code [2008] + bar
• RRD 144 [2010] w/ Ocean Rodeo GoJoe
• Airush Switch 130 [2008]

For wearing in the water:

• 3/2mm shortie
• impact vest
• helmet
• surf sunglasses w/ strap
• vibram five fingers KSO

Zanzibar

Ocean Rodeo 2010 Rise Kites [8m & 10m] For Sale

 

Photo: Kiteboarding Kingston

 

I bought new Ocean Rodeo Rise kites in August 2010.  I love these kites for their wide wind range, quick turning speed and jumping abilities.  I’m only selling so I can ride the 2011 Rise.  I haven’t even had time to write my review and snap photos yet!

Rise 8m: [sold - thanks!]

• colour – black & neon yellow [shown above]
• been used 10-12 times
• in near perfect condition [stored out of sun in its bag, dried & cleaned after each session]
• has three tiny holes [2-4mm diameter repaired with matching colour tape] in centre of canopy [from over eager person who put a rock on my kite to hold it down after landing]
• comes with bag and OR repair kit
• Cost = $650USD + shipping [kite in Victoria, BC]
• Cost w/ bar = $950USD + shipping
• Cost for new: Kite only = $959USD, Kite & bar = $1400USD

Rise 10m: [still available]

• colour – black & neon yellow [shown above]
• been used 3 times
• perfect condition [stored out of sun in its bag, dried & cleaned after each session]
• comes with bag and OR repair kit
• Cost = $750USD + shipping [kite in Victoria, BC]
• Cost w/ bar = $1050USD + shipping
• Cost for new: Kite only = $1079USD, Kite & bar = $1520USD

 

2010 Rise - mine are black and neon yellow...

 

Ocean Rodeo Mako King For Sale [2010]

 

Mako King...

 

Board is sold – thanks!

I’m selling my 2010  Mako King.  If you read my review here you’ll see I love this board so why am I selling it?  I’m keen on the 2011 Mako King graphics! Functionally there is no difference between the 2010 and 2011 Mako King…*sigh* lame I know…=-(

This board is setup with a deckpad and surf straps.  You can ride it as a directional with 3 fins at the tail and the straps moved towards the rear or you can ride it with 1 fin on each end and the straps in the middle of the board.  You can also ride it strapless in both configurations.

I bought this board new in August 2010 and have used it about 10 times.  I store and transport it inside a surfboard bag to keep it in minty fresh shape.

You get:

• a 2010 Mako King in excellent condition [no damage]
• deckpad [installed]
• surf straps [installed]
• OR 85mm surf fin
• OR H156mm fins x 3
• Cost = $600USD+shipping [board is in Victoria, BC]
• Cost for a new 2010 Mako King is $825US and it doesn’t come with surf straps and deckpad
• click here for more detailed pics of this board

 

Mako King with deckpad and surf straps...

 

How to fold your kite fast…

This video shows you an easy and fast way to get your kiteboard kite folded compactly. Note this will only work if you kite has a single point inflation system with a dump valve in the middle of the leading edge such as the Ocean Rodeo Rise and the Liquid Force Envy.

How to untangle your kiteboard bar and lines…

My Ocean Rodeo bar is a mess!...=-(

One of the bummers of kiteboarding is that occasionally your lines get into a tangled mess that is frustrating to deal with.  I’ve heard of several methods to get your bar sorted out, but I’ve only used one technique that worked well for me every time.  My buddy borrowed my kite and bar the other day then had to self-rescue which left the mess of lines you can see above.  He was going to deal with it in a couple days, but I got sick of the smell of rotting seaweed so I decided to deal with it myself and do up a blog post!

Before you untangle your lines:

• make sure you are warm and happy before working on your bar.
• if you are hurt or shivering or mad as hell this is not the time to tackle the job!
• you can always pack away the bar and deal with it somewhere else.
• if you want to deal with your bar find a spot that is dry, clean and free of anything that will snag your lines as you work.

A close up of the carnage!

Work out a strategy:

Every tangle is different so you need to be flexible and come up with a plan that best addresses your problem.  In the case above there is a loose mess of lines wrapped around the outside of the bar, then some lines wrapped neatly across the full width of the bar and finally there is another mess of lines tangled underneath the neat wraps!  So first I worked on the loose mess on top and just untangled one line [start with a coloured line because they are easy to see].

Start with the loose end of one coloured line:

I found the end of the blue line and working backwards kept pulling it out of the tangle until it was where the neat wraps started. Then I worked on the red line until I had the bar partially sorted as shown in the photo below.  By working on one line at a time you can easily make progress and you always know you are better off then 5mins ago which is a nice psychological boost when doing something frustrating.  Also by untangling the coloured lines first by the time you get to the two gray centre lines you tangle is 4 times easier to work on and the fact both lines are the same colour isn’t as big a deal as it would be if you started with them.

Working on red and blue lines first...

Keep the untangled lines separated:

You’ll notice in the photo above that I keep the blue and red lines piled up on opposite sides as I untangle them to avoid starting a new mess!

Work methodically:

When I untangled the blue line far enough to get to the portion of the bar where the lines were neatly wrapped I stopped and went back to work on the red until it was untangled to the same point.  Then I went back to the centre lines and got them untangled to the same spot.  This breaks up the big task of getting your bar sorted into a bunch of smaller jobs that you can finish quickly which makes you feel like you are getting somewhere.

Finally got the lines untangled!

When in doubt go back to working on one of the coloured lines:

Once I got all four lines untangled until the part of the bar where the lines were neatly wrapped I just pulled them off the bar together and laid them on the grass.  As I unwrapped them I saw the last portion of the lines were tangled underneath the neatly wrapped portion.  So I pulled them off together in a ball and started back with the loose end of the blue line until I had it totally untangled.  Then I worked on the loose end of the red line until it was untangled.  Finally the two gray lines were easy to untangle withe coloured lines out of the way.  You’ll note in the photo above I’ve laid the lines out separately on the sides of the control bar where they attach to make wrapping up the lines easier and to avoid get any new tangles.

Check your bar and lines for damage:

Chances are the reason your bar is messed up is due to a self-rescue incident.  Since your gear was used/abused in ways it normally isn’t you should carefully inspect the bar for damage, inspect and operate all safety releases, check any swivels, check your depower setup and inspect each line from end to end.  If in doubt don’t use the bar until you have it professionally inspected and repaired as needed.

My bar neatly wrapped and ready for action...=-)

Wrapping things up:

Once I had all my lines untangled and had fully inspected my bar/lines I wrapped everything up neatly and put it away.

Some untangling tips:

• have a spare bar so you can put away the messed up one and deal with it later.
• work on your lines when you are somewhere comfortable and you are in a good headspace.
• beer can often help with the untangling process as long as it’s used in moderation!
• if your buddy has an epic and is not feeling great do him a favour and untangle his lines for him.
• do the untangling some place dry and clean.

Summary

1. work out a logical plan
2. start with the loose end of one coloured line
3. untangle it until you get it totally loose or to a logical spot to work on the next line
4. untangle the next coloured line and then the gray centrelines to the same spot
5. pile up the loose lines in separate spots around the bar
6. once you have all your lines untangled inspect the bar and the lines carefully
7. wrap everything up neatly

Ocean Rodeo Mako King Upgrade…

I *hear* my Mako King...

My Ocean Rodeo Mako King is my go-to board for light wind days and when I’m feeling like cruising on a soul session mission.  It’s fun, it’s easy to ride and it’s soooo smooth!

My Mako King setup with twin tip foot pads and straps...

I’m riding 100% in mutant mode with the straps towards the rear of the board and three fins on the tail in a pseudo-surfboard configuration.  The only trouble is the stock foot pads and straps are really meant for a standard twin tip board where you ride it both directions in a duck stance.  So they don’t allow you to vary the of angle your feet very much.

Deck pad and surf straps installed...

One upgrade a lot of folks are doing is getting the optional Mako King deck pad from Ocean Rodeo and installing surf straps on their boards.  This lets you move your feet around on the board much more easily and also lets you transition to riding strapless when you want to.

Deck pad has cut outs for all inserts...

The deck pad comes with a glue backing and goes on super easy.  Just be sure to clean the surface of your board really well and let it dry first.  The deck pad has cut outs for all the inserts so you can use the board just like you did before in any setup.  You can put the TT pads and straps on over top of the deck pad if you want to ride the Mako King in twin tip mode.  You’ll just need some longer bolts to account for the extra thickness of the deck pad.

Deck pad close up...

The deck pad itself is high quality and features a raised diamond pattern to allow water to drain and keep your feet gripping the board. It is thick enough to add a touch of padding under your feet while still keeping you fully connected to the board.  You don’t get the same padding as the TT pads/straps offer so when landing jumps you need to adsorb the impact by landing on the tail of the board and flexing your knees.

Dakine Vario straps...

Andy at Bellingham Kite Paddle Surf turned me on to the Dakine Vario surf straps.  They are high quality and quite adjustable.  They mounted to the Mako King without any issues.  I set the straps up fairly loose so I could move my feet around easily, but still have some control for water starts and jumps.

Surf straps and grab handle...

I was excited to head out with the Mako King at Nitnaht Lake last weekend.  The wind was uncharacteristically light which made riding the King a perfect choice.

Here are my thoughts on the new straps:

• very easy to get feet in and out [even with booties on]
• easy to move my feet around so I can adjust position on the fly
• easy to get more angle on front foot when riding King as a directional
• more comfortable riding toeside than with TT pads/straps
• no problem jumping, but had to put some effort into keeping board on feet and not as much padding when landing
• very grippy [especially with booties]

One thing I liked about this setup is I can go from TT pads/straps to surf straps to riding strapless in a minute of two.  This adds a whole other level of versatility and options to the Mako King arsenal…sweet…=-)

The quiver of Mako King fins...

Another mod I’ve done on my King is to replace the 85mm OR surf fin with a 56mm fin and replace the two outside 56mm fins with smaller 51mm fins.  This smaller fin setup still provides lots of traction for the small wind swell I ride typically without slowing down the board as much as a huge 85mm fin does.  It also lets me turn the board easier and allows me to ride the mutant Mako King backwards easier.

Smaller Mako King fin setup...

I’ll be keeping the larger fins in the parts box I take with me kiting. I can definitely see the need for a bigger surf fin when I get the King out into some real waves.  The more I ride this board the more amazed I am about how versatile it is:

• twin tip or directional
• surf straps, TT straps or strapless
• many fin configuration options
• strong winds down to really light winds

This makes for an ideal second board in your quiver.

Kite – Tikit

Kites at Cook St. beach, Victoria BC...

Sharon and I were biking downtown on Thursday and she commented on how windy it was.  It occurred to me folks might be kiteboarding down at the Cook St. beach so I checked the wind speed on ikitesurf.com and then the webcam at Big Wave Dave.  Sure enough the wind was wipping in the right direction and kites were in the water.

One Way Tikit on the beach...

At the top of the long & steep set of stairs own to the beach Sharon started to lock up her bike when she asked me if I thought  it was a safe location to leave it.  I said – probably, while folding my Tikit and carrying it down to the water were it would really be safe!  One of the benefits of being a Bike Friday owner…=-)

Ian with his Flysurfer kite...

We had a great, but chilly time watching 10 kiters and 1 windsurfer ripping it up.  The launch at Cook St. [aka Kook Street] is quite challenging with a short rocky beach butted up against a steep vertical 50′ cliff.  So I was happy just to watch for today and see how everyone launched and landed their kites.  If you are going to get  hurt kiteboarding it’s most likely during the launching/landing phase when there are all sorts of hard objects to hit!

2011 Ocean Rodeo Razor in action...

We got to see the new 2011 Ocean Rodeo Razor kite on the water.  It looks great and I’m keen to demo one when they hit the stores.  After about 2hrs we were frozen [didn't bring warm clothes!] so we packed it in.  I must admit it makes me really happy to live in a town where I can bike, SUP, kiteboard, sea kayak within a 5km radius from my house…=-)

Narrow beach at Cook St...

Check your lines…

Testing lines in my backyard...

How well a kite flies is largely a function of inputs from the control lines.  If your lines are not the correct length due to stretching or improper setup you will have problems.  Although kite lines are very strong they are affected by UV, abrasion and extreme loading.  Lines will eventually fail and the result can be dangerous for a rider depending when and how the failure manifests.  On the plus side it is fairly easy to check line length and to inspect kite lines.

Here is what to do:

1. check your owner’s manual for the correct line lengths [for Ocean Rodeo and Naish 4 line bars that is equal lengths for all lines]
2. lay out your lines and untangle them
3. attach your lines to a nail in an open area
4. set your depower to the minimum position [least amount of depower]
5. pull back on your bar so the chicken loop is up against the bar
6. apply a decent amount of tension
7. observe your lines they should be tensioned equally
8. if they are great…if not you need to adjust them so that they are equal [check your manual for options on how to adjust your specific lines]
9. if you adjusted the lines go back and check them after adjustment to ensure you got it right

My kite lines attached to a nail...

Note that each kite and control bar is different so check your owner’s manual.  Note that in the above picture of an Ocean Rodeo 4 line SLE 3.0 bar line set the red and blue kook proof extensions don’t count when measuring the line length so ignore them.  However, another brand might factor them in so it is best to read the manual.

While you have your lines all laid out check for wear and tear by inspecting each and every line.  Pay special attention to wear around the bar and at the ends of the lines where they attach to the kite.  Also check your depower line, chicken loop and leash.  Operate all safety release mechanisms and inspect them for damage, wear or contamination with sand/debris.  You depend on this gear for your life so take your time and if in doubt replace any worn/damaged components.

Ideally kiters should own two duplicate bars with lines.  That way you can use one and keep one as a spare.   If something is wrong with your main bar you are not tempted to ignore it or improves a patch to keep riding.  This also allows you to ignore a tangled bar and keep riding on your second bar until the wind dies and you can deal with your main bar at a later time.

I’d recommend the following schedule for inspecting your bar and lines:

• immediately when you get a new bar before you use it
• after every month of regular use
• at the end of season before you pack your gear away
• after any major incident with your kite
• anytime your kite is flying funky

Kites waiting for riders to rig them and ride...

Maintenance Tips:

• after each session wash your bars with fresh water to remove salt, sand and other gritty debris from lines, pulleys, safety releases, etc…
• dry them out of the sun before packing them away
• don’t expose to high temperatures like the back window of your car on a hot day

Kiteboarding Egypt & Venezula…

Ocean Rodeo Mako King…

Ocean Rodeo Mako King...

I brought a Naish surfboard with me to Baja last winter and gave riding it a shot.  The results were not pretty.  It was so floaty and different from my twin tip boards I had a hard time adjusting to it.  I ended up selling it and figured I’d ride my twin tips a bunch more then try another surfboard later.  Now that I have quite a few more days of riding under my belt I had the hankering for a surfy riding board again.  So I did some research and came across the Ocean Rodeo Mako King as an interesting option.

Mako King setup options...

The Mako King is a hybrid twin tip and surfy snowboard style kiteboard.  You can mount the straps/pads in the centre of the board and use on fin on each end like a typical Mako.  You’d have a nice big 165cm x 45cm light wind board.  You can also ride the Mako King with the bindings shifted to the tail with a 3 fin thruster setup for carving and slashing turns like a surfboard.  Want more options?  You can add custom deck pad and ride the King strapless.  Learning how to ride toe side?  The King can be ridden backwards even in directional mode so you can hit the toe side when and as much as you like without any pressure if you aren’t feeling uber confident.

My Mako King Mutant setup...

Since I’ve got a Mako 140cm twin tip I setup my Mako King in Mutant directional mode.  I used 3 H1 56mm fins [1 at the tip and two at the outside tail] as well as an 85mm surf fin in the centre.  I shifted my pads and straps to the rear as shown in the second picture from the top.  The result is a really floaty Cadillac ride…like plowing through 30cm of powder on a snowboard.  Carving turns and slashing waves was a blast.  Going upwind was crazy….I just kept cranking the board on its edge and pointing upwind and it didn’t complain.  I was able to angle way further into the wind than anyone riding with me.  The massive amount of flotation made me feel like I had so much time to correct any mistakes or adjust my kite/board without any worries. Definitely a forgiving ride.

Single fin at the tip...

I rode the King backwards on the single fin at the tip no problems and was able to cruise upwind like that.  Popping or carving to toe side was easy and I’ve never been able to ride toe side so naturally before. This is a great option to have.  If you need to to change direction you can do whatever makes the most sense and gets you out of harm’s way fastest.  Quite a contrast to most people learning on a surfboard where falling in and swapping the board around is the usual drill.

Ocean Rodeo pads and straps...

The Ocean Rodeo Bliss pads and straps are the same as on my Mako 140.  They work great, are comfortable and look sweet.  Nothing to complain about. Some folks are using a deck pad and either going strapless or using surf straps on their Mako Kings.  The Ocean Rodeo deck pad has holes so once you stick it on your King you can still go back to straps and pads if you like for some sessions.  I like having all those choices.

I love the classic graphics on the 2010 Makos...

Build quality and fit/finish is really nice on this board.  I especially like the classic graphics on the 2010 Makos.  They look sharp.  The King comes with all the fins you need to set it up as a twin tip or Mutant as well as pads/straps.  The custom Mako King deck pad is an aftermarket item as are surf straps.

165cm x 45cm = big!

Mako King Specs:

• Duraclear top and bottom for extreme durability
• Tapered ABS rails to take the hits
• Massive Concave
• Rugged snowboard style construction
• Contoured 3D EVA foot pads for added riding comfort and grip
• Grab Handle
• Velcro adjustable foot straps
• Sizes: 165 x 45cm
• Max. 18 mm concave
• Thruster fin configuration on Mutant end of board

The King has a ton of concave and rocker as well as rounded outline.  This makes it butter smooth in chop and when using it in twin tip mode gives a nice skatey feel when you aren’t edging hard.  In Mutant mode driving with the fins or in twin tip mode when you are edging hard it digs in and lets you power up wind easily.

Ripping with the King...

What I really like about the King is all the options I have in one board:

1. large twin tip light wind board
2. sweet directional wave board
3. full pads/straps
4. strapless with a deck pad
5. deck pad and surf straps
6. ability to ride directional toe side, gibe or backwards
7. lots of fin options

5 mins with a screwdriver and you can walk down to the beach with a totally different board than you started with.  I don’t know of any other kiteboard that is nearly this versatile.

I would definitely recommend the Mako King to new kiteboarders over a skimboard or surfboard.  The King gives you the essential light wind board everyone needs as well as lets you progress from twin tip to directional at your own speed.  I think that’s ideal.  I wish I had bought a King as my second board rather than buying 2 or 3 boards I now have to sell since the King does everything they do and more.

Mako family photo...

The King is a big board and like all big boards it’s not as nimble as a smaller/lighter board.  I had no problem jumping with the King and spinning it, but it’s nowhere near as mobile as my Mako 140.  On the other hand the King is so easy and relaxing to ride it puts you into a different head space – definitely the right board for a soul session.  The kind that makes your face hurt from all the grinning and lets you appreciate each and every wave that crosses your path.

I think the Mako 140 and King are an ideal combo for me.  The 140 is fast, light and great for ripping up the water and jumping  aggressively.  The King is slower more chilled out when I want to cruise and carve.

Big fins...

I’m using 3 big fins on the tail of my King.  I’m not sure I need that much fin back there so I’m going to try a few different setups with smaller fins and see what I think.  I’ve also ordered a Mako King deck pad so I can ride this board strapless when I’m feeling the need for something new and challenging to learn.  I’ll report back with a long term review next spring.

So many boards so little time!

I picked up my Mako King from Bellingham Kiteboarding.  They had the best prices on OR gear that I could find and the service was great so I decided to take a drive over to WA and visit them.  I’ll post a bit more about the shop and kiteboarding in the Bellingham area when I get some free time.  Right now I need to wash my stinky gear and dry everything out!

Update: I’ve done some upgrades to my Mako King…read about them here.

Mo’ Nihtnat…

I spent 3 days riding at Lake Nihtnat...awesome, but now I am sore all over...

I'm back in the city to rest, wash my gear and get some work done...

I didn't take my SUPs this time....mistake!

This tree I sit on at the beach is 56 years old...

My trusty little tent and a quiver of boards...

I was hanging out with a bunch of windsurfers...

I love my old truck for bombing bad logging roads...

Click on this image for more Nihtnat photos incl Sharon taking lessons...

Ocean Rodeo Go Joe

Ocean Rodeo Go Joe...

The Ocean Rodeo Go Joe is an inflatable board recovery aid for kiteboarding.  It’s not hard to lose your board when kiteboarding, especially when first learning. The normal thing to do when you are separated from your board is to body drag back to it.  That’s cool and you should know how to body drag, but as a beginner you can lose your board a lot and spending most of your session drinking water as you get pulled back to your board gets old fast.

The Go Joe does three things to help out:

1. turns your board right side up [this allows it to go downwind towards you faster]
2. makes the boards more visible in waves and chop
3. acts like a sail to catch the wind and push the board towards you

All this means you’ll be back up and riding a lot faster.

When I was learning I got a board leash to attach the board to me so I couldn’t lose it.  It works great except that it has a nasty habit of loading up like a bungee and firing the board straight at you – ouch!  Not ideal.  =-(  The Go Joe won’t do this so you can use it without fear of your own equipment hurting you.  I don’t recommend using a leash – not worth it!

I got a Go Joe from Bellingham Kiteboarding [best prices and service for OR gear that I've found] for Sharon to help her make the most of her time on the water as she learns to kiteboard and to reduce the frustration of board recovery.  The best part about the Go Joe is that it allows you to use your body dragging skills to get back to your board.  Eventually you’ll get good enough at riding that you won’t lose your board often and your body dragging skills will get good enough that recovering your board is painless.

Go Joe in action...

Installation is a snap. The top video goes through all the steps.  Basically you attach the Go Joe via the two bolts holding your board’s grab handle to the board.  The Go Joe is made of very strong material similar to the leading edge of a high quality kite and has an inflatable bladder inside with a one way valve you attach a kite pump to.  I liked the fact the one way valve kept the air in while I inserted the valve plug.  I wish my kites had valves like that!  The Go Joe is durable enough to withstand a lot of abuse and you don’t have to baby it.

Go Joe deflated on Sharon's board...

The Go Joe stays attached your board between sessions and you simply deflate at the end of the day to store/transport the board.  Installation is so easy you can move it between boards in 2-4 mins.

One way valve accepts a standard kite pump...

The Go Joe is generally considered a product targeted at beginner riders.  And while it’s certainly useful for new kiteboarders there are times when even experienced riders can use help getting their boards back.  If conditions are extreme and even seeing your board is tough in the waves and chop the Go Joe’s added visibility can be very handy to help you spot your board and make recovery easier.  Some kiteboarding sites have difficult currents to deal with that can move a board away from you faster than you can body drag upwind.  With the Go Joe the board will resist the currents and let you get it back.

You want the Go Joe nice and firm to make sure it pops the board over...

Although I bough this Go Joe for Sharon I’m sure I’ll be using it from time to time when circumstances warrant.  I won’t risk losing an $700 – $800 board because I was too lazy or proud to use every tool at my disposal!  Of course we did get the black Go Joe which is much easier to see than a board upside down in the waves, but at the same time it doesn’t scream newbie!  A decent compromise…=-)  It’s easy enough to wrap some neon flagging tape around the top of the Go Joe when we need max visibility.

Go Joe doesn't interefere with your board's grab handle...

So far at Nihtnat this summer I’ve heard of several boards that have gone missing and have been too hard to spot in the large lake.  So their owners had to give up riding or borrow a board until they could find a new one to buy.  At $700 – $800 a new kite board is not cheap.

Go Joe stays out of your way until needed...

Even on Sharon’s relatively small [130cm] board the Go Joe doesn’t interfere with riding.  It’s flexible enough that if your leg touches it the Go Joe can bend out of the way so it doesn’t inhibit your freedom of movement.  This black Go Joe is also largely invisible with all the spray and speed involved with riding around on the water.  You can pretty much forget about it until you need it.

Hour glass profile...

You’ll notice that the Go Joe has a tapered bottom and wide top. The tapered bottom is designed so it doesn’t catch spray from the board when riding and slow you down.  The wide top is what pops the board upright and acts like a sail to push the board downwind to you.

Anyways that’s all for now – I’ll post a detailed review next spring once Sharon has had time to put the Go Joe to a long term test.

Ocean Rodeo Predator Drysuit…

Ocean Rodeo Predator Drysuit

Update: here are some Predator drysuit kiteboarding action shots. I got my Predator from Kite Paddle Surf Bellingham.

Even though Victoria BC has Canada’s mildest climate the fact is the Pacific Ocean is darn cold!  In the summer the air temperatures make wearing a 3mm to 5mm wetsuit comfortable.  In some lakes/inlets you can even skip the wetsuit entirely.  However the rest of the year you need some serious insulation to play in the water for any length of time.  Staying warm is important for having fun and can even be a matter of life and death when you find yourself in the cold water longer than you had planned.

Your choices for staying warm are either a crazy thick wetsuit 6mm-7mm+ or a dry suit.  A really thick wetsuit is stiff and cuts down on your mobility quite a lot.  A drysuit is a waterproof shell you can add layers of insulation underneath to match the temperatures you need to deal with.  Although some drysuits are bulky Ocean Rodeo makes a special drysuit [The Predator] that combines the warmth of a typical drysuit with the flexibility of a light wetsuit…the best of both worlds.

The way the Predator drysuit works is using a 3 layer system:

1. fleece insulation layer [matched to water/air temperatures]
2. waterproof breathable layer [keeps you dry]
3. stretchy neoprene skin [keeps the whole package sleek]

See this web page to understand how you put the Predator on.

The insulation layer is the same as any other drysuit, but the typically there is a baggy waterproof skin on top of it.  By using a thinner waterproof membrane and then a stretchy neoprene out skin the suit gets pulled tight against your body and looks just like a wetsuit.  This is critical for any sports in the waves…like surfing, SUP and kite surfing.  If a wave hits you in a baggy suit it will take you with it and give you no ability to control what happens.  The force may even rip your suit and if it fills with water you are dead.  In a skin tight suit the wave has nothing to push against other than your body which allows you to swim through a wave and get some control back.  As a result prior to the OR Predator you would never see anyone wear a drysuit in the waves…now you can.

Main Predator benefits:

• flexibility of a 2mm wetsuit
• buoyancy of a 3mm wetsuit
• warmth of a 7mm wetsuit
• easy to swap in dry insulation layers for each session
• breathable to expel moisture from sweat

Check out this set of detailed photos of the suit.

Putting on a cold wetsuit is pretty horrible..especially when you are freezing to begin with. Using a drysuit you can replace the insulation layer that gets a bit damp from sweat, even in a breathable suit, with a fresh dry one and head out for another session nice and warm!…awesome…=-)

I’ll be ordering up one of these suits so I can keep my watersports going into the winter.  Although Ocean Rodeo is headquartered in Victoria BC the best OR dealer I’ve found is Bellingham Kiteboarding.  I got my OR Mako 140 board from them and was happy with the killer price and the great service.  I’ll be calling them up once it gets chilly up here.

Check out this video of a Predator drysuit in the surf.

I’ll be using this drysuit for a bunch of different sports:

• kiteboarding
• SUPing [flat water and surf]
• sea kayaking

Ocean Rodeo Pyro-Pro drysuit

Ocean Rodeo also makes a more conventional drysuit called the Pyro [pro version shown above].  If you are not going into the waves this suit is cheaper and a bit easier to get on as there is only one layer to put on over your insulation layer.