406 Shimano Dynohub Wheel
I had this wheel built up for my Challenge Fujin SL recumbent, but I’m not riding that beast much at the moment so I stole it and installed it on my NWT. It’s a Velocity Razor 32H 406 rim and a Shimano dynohub. I took the Schwalbe Marathon off the stock NWT front wheel and mounted it here. It’s dark in the AM and gets dark early in the PM still so having a dynohub equipped bike will be nice. The drag is slightly noticeable on a 300km brevet riding a high performance recumbent. On the NWT I don’t notice a thing.
Solidlights 1203D dual LED dyno headlight
This Solidlights 1203D dual LED headlight is also from my Fujin. It’s not as bright as the latest Euro dyno headlights [although I may take advantage of their upgrade offer once winter's darkness has passed], but it still casts lots of light in a wide beam that is very user friendly. I’ve been mainly using Dinotte 200L-AA headlights on my city rides and they work quite well, but my rechargeable batteries are getting old so even on flashing mode I’ve had them die early or not work at all several times in the recent past. I’ll be buying new batteries for them soon, but it will be nice to have a light that will always work no matter what. I’ll leave it on during the day as well for extra visibility.
Shimano 105 cranks & BB with a single 43T ring
I had this 105 crank and BB in my parts bin so I threw it on to add to the Zebra colour scheme I seem to have on the go! I removed the 59T big ring and will just run the 43T smaller ring. I left the front derailleur, cable and shifter in place in case I find a single chain ring insufficient. The swap back will be much easier. If all goes well I’ll pull the unused parts.
Surly Singlenator in "Push Up" mode
I got a Surly Singlenator and installed it in “push up” mode to tension the chain. This provides a bit more chain wrap, but mostly I just prefer the cleaner looking drivetrain since nothing is hanging down. Note that I do have to drop the chain off the front chain ring to fold the bike, but that seems like a reasonable price to pay for a slick drivetrain. More importantly if I forget to do so the chain just comes taught, but the chain tensioner has enough flex that it cannot be damaged.
I swapped the 16T cog for a 23T
I had a 23T Nexus cog in parts bin so I threw in on in place of the 16T that came with my NWT. It will provide lower gears that I need for climbing mountains with a loaded bike. Will a 43T x 23T give me a high enough top gear to keep me happy? I think the answer is a definite maybe!…hahaha…I’ll need to ride it a bit more to be sure. I could easily setup my chain with 2 SRAM powerlinks and run a higher gear for unloaded riding around town. For a tour it would a simple matter of swapping a bigger rear cog and adding a few links of chain.
Salsa 80mm 115 deg stem
I swapped in a Salsa 80mm 115 deg rise Moto Ace SUL stem. It will give me a slightly higher bar position, but primarily it’s job is simply to Zebra-fy the NWT a touch more…lol…I’m a fashion victim!
This bell keeps the NWT legal on the Calgary bike paths.
I threw on a bell so the By-Law officers can’t bust me on the Calgary bike paths. I was stopped, but not ticketed recently riding through the Stephan Avenue pedestrian mall downtown. I figured my luck may not hold so best to be prepared – besides I might run into someone on the paths that needs a stern bell ringing…=-)
I use this model of Blackburn mirror on all my drop bar bikes. If I can see behind me easily I am able to ride much more aggressively. I like the fact it removes with little effort and can survive a bit of abuse without breaking.
an old Trek Seat bag
After trying several seat bags in my parts bin this old Trek model fits the Brooks B-17 on my NWT best and is just big enough to hold everything I need to fix a flat or make a minor adjustment. It has a tab for a LED light which is nice, but these tabs never allow you to aim your LED properly which is critical for effective performance. Because of this I use these tabs for a secondary rear light to compliment a properly aimed primary LED. If you have any doubt about this turn on your bike’s rear LED and try viewing it from a variety of angles. Your light will be much brighter in a narrow range of angles and much dimmer when viewed beyond this range.
A properly mounted and aimed rear LED is essential
Here is a well designed rear light mount that allows me to aim my LED both up/down and side to side for best results. If you want to be even more visible use two of these mounts one aimed at close range cars and one aimed for cars that are farther away. The Planet Bike Superflash light is my favourite at the moment for brightness, cost and functionality. I normally run two on the back of each bike by buying extra mounts and swapping the lights as needed.